Smearing climbing In this discipline, we were able to test these shoes side-by-side because frequently, we are trying the same move over and over again. What is Smearing? In this method of climbing, you press your foot against a rock and utilize the forces of friction to keep you stable. Outdoors, it’s easier to smear on granite and sandstone, because they don’t have a smooth surface. Sep 22, 2019 · Climbing Shoe Price Shape Upper Rubber Best Uses; La Sportiva Skwama: $199: Aggressive: Leather/synthetic: Vibram XS Grip 2: Smearing, hooking: La Sportiva Solution Mar 30, 2024 · And that split sole – that area under the arch of your foot – flexes nicely on terrain where friction is the name of the game. Most Comfortable: Ocun Jett QC ; Best for Jumping Grades: Butora Acro ; Best Value: Black Diamond Method; Best for Bouldering: Scarpa Drago LV ; Best for Sport Climbing: La Sportiva Solution Comp; Best for Trad Climbing: Scarpa Vapor S; Best for Narrow Feet: Red Jul 10, 2021 · Most climbing companies have their own specific slab climbing shoes specifically designed for the unique conditions required to slab climb! What Is Smearing In Climbing. 8s. We were super impressed with how well they performed while rand smearing in the classic tight corners found in Index, WA where you absolutely have to rely on footwork to get up the climb. Beginners can start by focusing on Jul 15, 2024 · Smearing is a climbing technique where the climber uses the friction between the sole of their shoe and the rock surface to gain upward movement. This type of rock climbing is done on a less-than-vertical wall and is also called friction climbing because it relies so heavily on your footwork and the friction you create between the rubber of your climbing shoes and the rock Aug 4, 2023 · It’s more common to smear when climbing outdoors, but some indoor climbs require the climber to utilize this technique on volumes or rounded footholds. When I started out, I would practice smearing by matching a large jug and walking my feet up the wall. 10b then a 5. However, the Tarifa holds its own on boulder, indoor, and sport routes. 9 like its labelled. When footholds are sloped, marginal or just non-existent, the smear really comes into its own. This soft, flexible shoe can squish to maximize surface Aug 19, 2024 · Overall crack performance rated a big 9/10 from Anthony. Best For: A diverse bouldering sport climbing Summary: If there’s one shoe that’s synonymous with climbing hard, it’s the La Sportiva Solution. I cannot pass the lead test at my local gym because the route they test on feels more like 5. Dumb name, awesome product. Instead of reaching for detectable handholds or footholds, you carefully press your flexible climbing shoe against the bare slab and shift your weight onto your foot. They offer the grip, precision, and control you need to send it on any problem or route. Jul 3, 2021 · Smearing against a flat wall. Stop at a resting point with a kneebar as needed to plan your route further. Instead of a crisp, 90-degree angle where the rand meets the sole as two discrete panels of rubber, the Italian shoemaker’s No Edge shoes have a toe-scumming patch that rounds over the forefoot-rand to “become” the sole. The climbing mechanics between these two features are the same: by pushing against both walls with the hands and feet, a climber wedges themselves into a constriction. Sure, it won’t smear on the same level as a super-soft specialist shoe, but for an all-around performer with a preference for edging, it doesn’t completely forsake its smearing ability. If you Feb 27, 2024 · Stiff models are perhaps the most obvious best climbing shoes for edging. The 4mm of Vibram XS Grip2 rubber on the stoles of the Otaki felt a little bulky and unnervingly thick initially, and it took a few days of wear to feel supple on the rock. Learn how this technique improves footwork, balance, and stability, allowing climbers to conquer challenging routes with confidence. Nov 7, 2023 · Discover why smearing is crucial in climbing. For smearing on sandstone, grit or indoor climbing a soft shoe like the Veloce is likely to be very good. One thing I missed in my above post is that with flexible enough ankles, you certainly can put the front of your foot on even a wall with zero convexity and push through the foot to some degree, relying on the normal force perpendicular to the wall to lock in the friction Apr 2, 2025 · Additionally, it proved excellent for smearing on traffic-worn limestone and “smedging” on tiny nubbins. . It features phenomenal edging, a flat toe, ankle protection for cracks, decent smearing ability, and an ultra-supportive, semi-stiff sole that will keep your feet feeling strong pitch after pitch. We were able to confidently friction our way up granite faces, making these shoes great for climbing many moderate, multi-pitch classics. Two basic techniques to master are edging and smearing. Feb 15, 2023 · How to Smear – Climbing Technique 101. Nov 11, 2023 · This is why soft climbing shoes are most suited to smearing, large-volume friction moves, as well as some types of slab climbing. On the one hand, there is a small amount of flex in the toe box, so little smears on slabs feel solid. It involves pressing the sole of your shoe into the rock, generally keeping your heel lower than your forefoot, to create as large a contact area as possible to securely grip smooth surfaces such as slabs or volumes—and impress with your performance on both. May 26, 2021 · Check Best Price and Reviews. When placing a smear or smearing, you rely solely on the friction created between the sticky rubber of your climbing shoes and the rock. Unleash the secrets behind mastering smearing in this informative post. Nov 11, 2023 · In terms of performance, the Vapor V strikes as a middle-ground for edging and smearing. It allows you to essentially climb PSR is a shoe selection tool that ranges from (1) sensitive/smearing to (10) powerful/edging. Climbing shoes do come in half sizes, which can make all the difference. Evolv sizing uses three categories of fit: Max Performance. Apr 22, 2025 · Very stiff, not great for smearing, lacks precision: Steep-climbing-specific design lacks versatility, almost entirely covered in rubber: Lacks stiffness, not designed for high-performance climbing: Not the stickiest rubber, complicated closure straps: Not great for smearing, rubber lacks the stickiness of more expensive models Mar 6, 2025 · Smearing is traditional climbing jargon when climbers apply pressure with the sole of their shoe against the rock, gaining traction with little or no footholes. Steep Terrain Nov 16, 2023 · This is the preferred style for indoor shoes because gym climbing is significantly more dynamic and three-dimensional than traditional outdoor rock climbing. Dec 17, 2024 · High-performance gym climbing designs are characterized by ultra-soft builds (including little to no midsole), soft and sticky rubber, and a rounded toe for better smearing performance on volumes. Aug 8, 2023 · The Smear. In order to test this metric, we took these shoes out to the slabbiest boulders around Colorado, the low-angle romps of Lumpy Ridge, and the technical domes of the Estes Park Valley. Its sticky base seems to ask for quiet feet, well-placed toes and precise movement. Summary: The Shaman is a solid bouldering and sport climbing all-rounder, but it really feels at home on the overhung projects in your life. Apr 16, 2013 · Joe Kinder, an ambassador for Eastern Mountain Sports, explains the climbing technique of "smearing" your climbing shoes against rock. Sep 21, 2021 · Try to visualize your route before you begin climbing the overhang. This can be terrifying but with the right shoes, you can smear your way up a Apr 25, 2024 · These shoes strike a wonderful balance between a comfy slipper ideal for crack climbing and an aggressive shoe designed for steep, techy sport climbing. Naturally, they also work wonders in deep pockets and overhung terrain. CLIMBING HANDHOLDS A great jug that’s suitable for resting. Aug 4, 2023 · Outdoor climbing presents unique challenges for edging and smearing techniques due to the unpredictability of natural rock formations. The Ondra Comp is a great choice for high-end indoor competition climbing and outdoor Mar 24, 2022 · These are super comfortable and versatile climbing shoes that are at their best when edging and smearing. Focus on the most positive section; Keep ankle at about 90° Wrap toes around hold; Sloper A sloper foothold. Smearing is a rock climbing term used to describe the action of placing the sole of your shoe onto the rock to create a high amount of friction on relatively featureless slabs. 5 days ago · Climbing editor Anthony Walsh came to a similar conclusion on the 700-foot 5. Unlike. When a company designs a new suite of shoes, they send pairs to us and our testers, and we climb in them, compare notes, write a review, and then, later, do a roundup of the latest and greatest releases of the year. For multi pitch sport climbing and trad climbing routes, you want a more comfortable shoe that can still perform well. Robson says: February 23, 2024 at 1:08 am. The model that’s best for you depends on a variety of factors, including on your body type, climbing style, how hard you climb, the type of rock you climb on, how many different pairs you want to own, and how much money you want to spend. Apr 21, 2020 · How to Practice Smearing Effectively in Climbing. Many climbers view smearing as a last resort and will always try to stand on a positive foothold in preference; however, in so doing this may facilitate an off-balance or strenuous move. Also I when I need to I find myself heel hooking way more than toe hooking on climbs where smearing doesn’t work. Developing the correct footwork and optimal use of your feet, not only will save you a lot of energy while mastering climbing I plan to stop smearing and try other techniques when smearing fails me… but for now I’m just looking for a good shoe that doesn’t slip on tiny holds My gym has a 1 month return policy on shoes. While standing on small pockets and edges will be a bit difficult, these shoes will be more than enough for most sport climbs in the 5. The key to smearing is Aug 1, 2017 · What is smearing, how to do it and when to use it. Softer shoes will conform to those big plastic holds and smear on the sandpaper-textured wall with ease. ” Weidner solved this issue by shoving the toes in as far as Jan 2, 2024 · The updated La Sportiva TC Pro comes close to living up to the climb-anything-anywhere hype surrounding it. The aim is to have as much surface contact between the sole of your shoe and the rock as possible, therefore maximising friction. 12 Guy Like You on Snowpatch Spire in the Bugaboos: “The Generator Mid’s big toe box was adept at rand smearing in a sustained corner crack and for the wide stuff, but boxy and insensitive in thin jams. I've been climbing for 2 years, mostly climbing 6a - 6b+ ish routes. Oct 4, 2021 · With that said, it is a delicate platform for outdoor climbing. Unique lacing system that is exceptionally easy to tie and untie. In the realm of rock climbing, the term “smearing” serves as a cornerstone technique that can quite literally mean the difference between reaching the summit or taking an unplanned plunge. In rock climbing smearing is essentially a foot technique that uses the friction between the sole of your shoe and the rock or climbing wall. In the gym, resin holds tend to be bigger and offer bucket loads of friction, so soft shoes that can smear on these surfaces offer the biggest benefit. Jul 28, 2023 · The Evolv Defy is a great shoe for climbing at most sport crags or gyms. It’s a skill that allows climbers to tackle challenging terrain with confidence and grace. Comfortable fit. “To me, the KL really shone in thin cracks where its thin toe profile was able to sneak into the occasional pod and get significantly more weight on my feet instead of smearing on the outside,” he noted, taking just the one point off for offwidth climbing, where ankle coverage is lacking. What It Is: Smearing involves pressing the rubber of your climbing shoes directly against the rock or wall for friction. Jan 11, 2022 · Sometimes they’re climbing “moderate” 2,000-3,000-foot big walls that are a technical mix of face climbing, smearing, and crack climbing from fingers to off-width. There's also very much a matter of personal preference too May 21, 2020 · 10. We know this sounds frightening. PSR 1-3. Smearing is all about developing trust in your feet as well as understanding when to do it and when to avoid it. Nov 12, 2023 · Have you ever wondered what kind of climbing shoes are best for smearing? Smearing, a technique used in rock climbing to gain traction on smooth and slippery surfaces, requires a specific type of shoe. Focus on distributing your weight uniformly throughout the climbing shoe's sole to make the most amount of contact with the rock. But there are still a few areas where this shoe does fall short. In a recent EpicTV video, Ondra accidentally tries to take credit for the concept and term, but both have been in use for decades. 12/V6, I definitely experience a difference in performance between XSEdge and XSGrip2. One such technique is smearing, a crucial skill that involves using friction between the climbing shoe and the rock surface to find stability in precarious situations. Although the move may Because, in order to get enough friction for a smear to hold, a climber must be very precise about keeping the majority of her weight pressing in at right angles to the wall itself. Today Jack is showing us how to smear using a volume on one of our excellent slabs. The Mastia will crush techie boulders, spicy cave problems, and tricky lead routes without breaking a sweat. This style is what people usually jump to assume when they hear "slab climbing". Jan 12, 2022 · Smearing indoors can include pressing your feet into the flat of the wall, walking along volumes with no holds on them, or using a foothold that everyone agrees is truly crap. Being comfortable on your feet is an integral part of climbing at a high level, and smearing on bad footholds can be the key to sending a route or falling. If you are on a higher-angle slab, then smearing gets more tricky and the climbing becomes more like face climbing. Apr 22, 2025 · Very stiff, not great for smearing, lacks precision: Steep-climbing-specific design lacks versatility, almost entirely covered in rubber: Lacks stiffness, not designed for high-performance climbing: Not the stickiest rubber, complicated closure straps: Not great for smearing, rubber lacks the stickiness of more expensive models Nov 15, 2023 · Smearing. Neither excel at vertical edging. What are the basic rock climbing footwork techniques that will improve climbing technique and efficiency? Basic footwork for rock climbing includes mastering these 4 techniques: Edging, Smearing, Toe Hook, and Heel Hook. Factors such as rock quality and choosing the best foot placements come into play. Mar 24, 2023 · The shoe’s softness, great for smears and toeing down in the steeps, hurts performance on vertical edges and when trying to apply power through small feet // Tan fabric dirties quickly and makes the shoe look grungier than it really is // The fabled Drone heel feels a bit squishy with the new rubber—which helps on smeary heels but hurts performance on edges. However, at 90-degrees or wider Feb 19, 2021 · For crack climbing, an intermediate shoe is not normally recommended, as you tend to want a more neutral camber for jamming your feet in cracks. So, what exactly is smearing in rock climbing, and why is it revered as a fundamental skill among climbers? Discover the intricacies of slab climbing, a unique style that prioritizes finesse, balance, and technique over sheer strength. This lower body skill is one of the few areas in climbing where getting your hips as close as possible to the wall is not the optimal position. Mar 10, 2025 · The best climbing shoes just keep getting better. If your feet are too low, then you don't have enough of your body weight pushing on to your feet and engaging the friction of your shoes. Heel hook: the use of the heel on a hold, usually near chest level, to aid in pulling and balance. Dec 29, 2022 · Smearing, simply put, is using the surface of the wall as a foothold. Gain insights into the benefits of weight distribution, energy conservation High performance technical climbing shoe: this is where we take what we learn from the EVO Lab and apply it to climbing shoes that need to perform across a wide variety of rock types and climbing styles. According to the above information, I categorized the features of good edging climbing shoes below: Stiffness: Edging shoes are often stiffer than other types of climbing shoes. Enhance your footwork, balance, strength, technique, endurance, focus, flexibility, and agility to conquer challenging climbs with confidence. Edging Amber, one of the staff members and coaches at Hangout, tells a story about how she helped a woman climb better even when there were no footholds available. True smearing on smooth lower-angle rock. Jul 31, 2023 · The problem with smearing is that you can smear pretty much anywhere, although nowhere is very good. I love my Tanta Dec 27, 2023 · Smearing. At Evolv these are climbing shoes that can deliver precision edging, slice into tips sized cracks and pockets, smear across scary slabs and Jan 2, 2024 · Smearing The Solution Comp doesn't supply quite the same level of tactile feel as some other competition-oriented shoes. Evolv shoes are not designed to be downsized. Mar 17, 2022 · The rock climbing technique dogma is essentially to keep your arms feeling weightless and place the burden on your feet. In fact, after a month or two of visiting the gym, I’m willing to bet you are ready to graduate to a pair of intermediate climbing shoes. Delicate, in this sense, refers to the sensitivity of the shoe. Smears require a deliberate technique due to their lack of defined edges. Smearing. Sep 11, 2020 · Another classic slab climbing shoe that has proven it’s worth smearing and jamming into cracks over the years. Indoors, this flips on its head. Read on for our 2025 picks from La Sportiva, Scarpa, and more! smearing on granite slabs, and toeing in on small cracks. When I find a smear that works, I’ll put a small chalk tick on that spot before rehearsing the move over and over. Climbing Technique: Smearing Smearing is a technique used to stand on poorly-defined, sloping features. I’m Jim and this is my place where I talk and write about climbing stuff. Apr 27, 2016 · Smearing. Nov 11, 2023 · In my opinion, nobody really stays a beginner for long in climbing. And while this true smearing is quite common on moderate slabs, once you get into harder slabs you usually get pushed more into smedging territory. Jun 4, 2024 · Smearing. A stiffer shoe will allow you to edge better, frontpoint, and smear better on miniscule holds without tiring your feet as much as a softer boot will. Smearing ‘Smearing’ is a friction-based technique for climbing or bouldering. Smear in the Masai feels a little contradictory. Smearing is a common climbing technique utilized in both indoor and outdoor rock climbing. The forefoot of the shoe feels pretty stiff, which helps transfer power into the toebox, but the split sole allows for some degree of flexibility, allowing the shoe to adapt to smearing on volumes and walls. Practice side pulls, underclings, and gastons to understand how body positioning affects your grip. So I can replace the tarantulas. After a few months of wear, the rubber had worn down a bit, and they felt more sensitive and smearing capabilities improved. Good climbing technique allows us to use ‘less’ energy than other methods. This applies to overhung climbing too, another style of climbing that soft shoes excel at. That said, upgrading from your beginner shoes isn’t best measured by time, but rather by the grades and terrain you are climbing. This technique requires the climber to use pressure and strength coming from the feet to create friction on the rock, instead of relying on shape edges or Smearing happens when you don't have an actual foothold, so you rely on your shoe's rubber for friction against the rock. Gorilla stomp. Climbing shoes have rubber soles to increase friction between you and the wall. I notice that most of the nearest crags ive been to are limestones (nightmare). Smearing utilizes friction and doesn’t depend on having an edge to weight. Edging, smearing and even plastic holds are garnering particular durometers, thicknesses, and adhesive characteristics. This allows it to easily bend in the mid- and forefoot and get full contact when smearing volumes or slabs. Oct 27, 2021 · Rock climbing involves a number of different techniques including smearing, jamming and edging. To practice inside, find a route in the gym with big handholds and practice smearing up the route using the blank wall, instead of standing on the footholds. Nov 11, 2023 · In the world of climbing, smearing refers to the technique of using the friction between your climbing shoes and the rock surface to gain stability and leverage. Traditionally the best edging climbing has been the flat-lasted models with a full-length midsole. For this you want a flexible shoe with softer rubber (C4 is good). Aug 4, 2023 · Smearing Climbing Technique: How to Get Better (2025 Guide) 2 Comments. For more information, How to Practice: Try traversing a climbing wall while intentionally using holds in different directions. This deficiency is starkest in the forefoot, where the 0. If you like to climb outdoors regularly, you may want to opt for another climbing slipper. In rock climbing a slab climb (or friction climb) is a type of climbing route where the rock face is 'off-angle' and not fully vertical. I currently use the scarpa vapor v’s which I’m happy with bc the have a relatively hard sole and wide toe-box but I’m wondering if there might be something better out there. For optimal performance of climbing sole rubber, temperature is key. 9 mm LaspoFlex insert adds edging support while sacrificing sensitivity. Jul 17, 2021 · You can smear in a lot of different scenarios, but it is a climbing technique most commonly used in slab climbing. Soft, flat shoes are great for crack climbing, while soft downturned shoes are great for steep walls and indoor climbing, where smearing on volumes is commonly required. Nov 14, 2024 · We tested and reviewed the best women's climbing shoes of 2025, including picks from La Sportiva, SCARPA, and more. Find out how smearing reduces stress on finger and hand holds, enhances precision and control, and increases stability on slippery surfaces. Climbing shoe rubber can be engineered to work better for specific climbing demands. In climbing, there is a general aim to be more efficient. Broken down into small, digestible lessons, these stations are designed to guide you through the foundational concepts of climbing such as basic climbing terminology, efficient foot placement, and different body positions. The downturn helps with steeper climbing, helping you to pull your body closer to the wall with your toes, but smearing on vertical faces works best when you keep your heels lower than the foothold, which is harder to do with a stiff downturned shoe. A shoe that is correctly worn is essential - thin rubber throughout - not just at the toe- however For every other hold- (even on the same route!!!) - a stiffer sole is better. There are limitless ways to describe positioning your climbing shoes on a foothold, but the main two you’ll hear in the rock climbing gym are edging and smearing. but it is a good choice for climbing on bigger edges, smearing on volumes in Aug 6, 2024 · Mastering Footwork for Better Climbing Edging and Smearing Techniques. Many shoes are sized in UK or European sizes, so make sure you have the correct conversion before purchasing. Try Jan 22, 2022 · Smearing This is the next technique to master; it’s harder than edging because you can’t necessarily “see” a smear. Powerful for small holds. Spend $160 on aggressive climbing shoes and then wear them to the gym to climb vert 5. Features. When there are defined footholds to stand on, the whole process is much easier, but traversing an undercling crack or rail can present a lack of any real footholds, and smearing on a blank wall is often necessary. Aug 23, 2023 · Corners, or dihedrals, are an entirely different monster. The difference is that smearing involves using a part of the wall that appears flat. Often, slab boulders or slab sections on routes require you to smear (using only the wall or a volume for your feet instead of a hold) against the wall. For a high-top model, this shoe's ultra-sticky outsole and surprisingly sensitive feel make it great for smearing. Sport climbing shoes need to be comfortable enough to wear for the entire time you’re on a route, which these easily accomplish. But for more technical smearing, the shoe lacks the torsional rigidity and support to inspire confidence on small holds. The most effective way to accomplish this is to lean away from the wall slightly (as little as possible, in fact) and keep the soles of your feet pressed tightly Feb 10, 2020 · For a perfect full smear, you want a shoe that is so big that your toes points up, ensuring maximum rubber contact. All of the rubber outsoles provide acceptable traction across various types of stone, and artificial gym holds, but specialization is growing. 2. GEAR Jun 27, 2024 · I’ll start by saying that, while I always loved La Sportiva’s No Edge technology in the gym, I never really “got” it on rock. If you’re a trad climber, knowing this technique will definitely come in handy– many trad routes involve sections of slab climbing or necessitate technical Feb 9, 2023 · Smearing is a climbing move that involves pressing the sole of the climbing shoe against the rock surface and then sliding the foot in a controlled manner to maintain friction and balance. Smearing vs. Whereas the opposing forces required to climb a parallel-sided chimney are obvious, an angled corner system is much more thoughtful. Proper footwork for rock climbing is crucial. One advantage these may have over the Mythos the Five Ten Stealth C4 rubber that is consistently ranked as the stickiest climbing rubber on the market . What is it: Smearing is when you place your foot against the wall and leverage the friction like a foothold. Smear like on a slab; Drop heel as far as possible to maximize contact; Bend toes upward to engage forefoot; Small Edge A small edge foothold. Smearing is used in most types of climbs including slab and inverted climbing. Smearing: when you place your foot directly on the rock or wall. The most sensitive shoes are also the softest and easiest to smear. Edging involves placing the edge of your shoe on a foothold, while smearing uses the friction between your shoe and the rock surface. Depending on your body position, almost any hold, even a seemingly blank place on an overhanging wall, can be smeared. Feb 16, 2015 · Flagging: a climbing technique in which one foot is crossed behind the other to avoid barn-dooring and to improve balance. And now some climbing moves for you. Smearing is somewhat similar to holds since you depend on your shoe rubber to adhere to a rough part of the wall. Instead of relying on small edges or holds, smearing allows you to distribute your weight evenly across a larger surface area, maximizing contact with the rock. Smearing on a hold in the gym. This means no matter the route or problem you’re climbing, you can use the gray surface of any volume while climbing. 02/09/2023. Do: Get a resole before you need it. Put these in your shoes. Relative to its elite Nov 15, 2023 · Smearing is a climbing technique that involves using the friction between your climbing shoes and the rock surface to gain stability and upward progress. Oct 1, 2020 · As you start climbing steeper terrain and gravitate towards a more aggressive shoe, as with bouldering and sport climbing, you will want an even tighter fit. Enjoy! What is Smearing? So I've been climbing for a couple years now, and have been leading for lat last few months. Anyway, I was wondering if "smearing" counted as a natural hold in gyms. While the Chimera’s downturned shape isn’t ideal for smearing, the shoe makes up for this somewhat with its softness and flexibility. It requires the climber to rely on the friction generated by pressing the sole of their climbing shoe against the wall or a volume. While the softer angle enables climbers to place more of their body weight on their feet, slab climbs maintain the challenge by having smaller holds. To smear, as you are pulling with straight arms on your handholds, push your toes and balls of your feet flat on the wall to create Mar 23, 2023 · The best overall climbing shoe should be versatile and comfortable, yet capable of edging, smearing, heel hooking, and toeing into cracks. Jan 31, 2022 · Contrary to popular belief, the best shoe for hard slab climbing is actually one with a stiffer sole, not a soft slipper-like one. If you want to stand on tiny pebbles on granite or grit, or small limestone edges, then a stiffer pair could be nice like the Tenaya Iati or Scarpa Vapour series. 10/6 Aug 4, 2023 · Smearing Climbing Technique: How to Get Better (2025 Guide) 2 Comments. Key characteristics of indoor climbing shoes include; Nov 23, 2023 · Discover specific drills and techniques to improve your smearing skills in climbing. Within this category, the Scarpa Drago has risen to the top thanks to its fantastic fit and build quality, generous rubber patches, and decent edging The Climbing Technique Stations are a part of the Climbing Fundamentals Area where you can explore vertical terrain before heading out on the floor. Use Nov 17, 2023 · Ten Things You Need to Know About Climbing Shoes; Our Favorite Bouldering Shoes; Honorable Mentions; Bouldering shoes come in all shapes and sizes. Definitely try the dropping the heel technique, it was a complete game changer for me once I started applying it regularly. Smearing in rock climbing is a friction-based technique where you place the flat rubber sole of your climbing shoes directly onto the rock instead of a reliable edge or better foot placement. Learn how to master precise footwork, subtle body movements, and effective use of friction on tilted rock surfaces. Apr 30, 2023 · They'll absorb more of the pressure and stress associated with standing on a tiny foothold, providing an efficient, comfortable climbing experience. Missed the foot? No worries, just smear. Smearing is useful in slab climbing, when you're on low-angle rock without many defined footholds. Feb 14, 2022 · A good way to practice smearing outside is to find a low-angle, smooth boulder and smear up it without using your hands. If you are working some low-angle friction slab in, then you are going to heavily rely on smearing to clip the chains. PSR 8-10. The sole of your climbing shoe is thrust directly into a rock to acquire vertical ground by developing friction. Avoid aggressive downturned shoes, but keep an eye out for a near-neutral downturn Without a doubt, the Miura is an absolute top pick when it comes to climbing on edges, pockets, and even smearing. Sep 14, 2018 · But did you know that several languages actually use the word schmear and it means smear. The first mention that I can find on climbing. 3. Open handed grips can make volume edges work like big slopers. It is hard to imagine walking up a rock by using mere frictional Jan 16, 2024 · Smearing is utilizing the friction of your climbing shoe against the rock to temporarily grip the vertical surface and enable you to progress upwards. So if you want, you can call this move a smear or a schmear. Jun 28, 2018 · 3. PSR 4-7. Oct 23, 2024 · *To smedge is to stand with a smearing posture on an edge or sloping edge. For over a decade, our climbing experts have tested over 75 shoes side-by-side to bring you the most comprehensive climbing shoe review in existence. Utra Snug. Jul 6, 2024 · We explore what smearing in rock climbing is, detailing what it is, how it works and considering whether it’s something hikers do too Apr 17, 2023 · @AnnaHazelnutt joined us at the Lattice HQ to teach us some slab techniques! In this video we Anna covers the two major styles of slab movement - Smearing an Apr 5, 2022 · 3) Smearing Smearing is all about developing trust in your feet as well as understanding when to do it and when to avoid it. Oct 24, 2023 · What is Smearing in Rock Climbing. Sep 4, 2023 · This is another great rock climbing shoe that suits the type of climbing pursued by most of the people I know: moderate to hard sport climbing and bouldering, outdoors and in the climbing gym. We were highly impressed at how well the Booster performed on different types of rockas well as on plastic holds in the gym. There are other shoes in our review that are awesomely sensitive, but will leave your calves quivering after a long pitch of slab climbing. In this article, we want to take a deeper look at smearing, one of the unique rock-climbing techniques involving your footwork. One of the most important things to learn when you first start climbing is how to smear. So how do I remember where to smear? Muscle memory. A stiffer shoe will offer you superior underfoot support, acting like a platform for you to stand on, and saving your muscles from over-excursion as you dig into small edges. Jun 28, 2023 · Smearing. And the sensitivity at the ball of the foot was among the best I’ve ever tested, making for supremely confident smearing. May 10, 2021 · Some of the rock-climbing skills that have been honed over the years include edging, smearing, stemming, flagging, lay-backing, mantle, underling, side pull, and so on. The Vibram XS Grip offers bucket-loads of friction too, even on these mini-smears. The smearing technique is most often used in slab climbing. You might get sideways glances by hoighty toighty climbers for the latter, but climbing is just about having fun right, so who cares! Smearing is a pretty odd movement. Highly sensitive smearing and volumes. It depends. Jan 22, 2025 · Best Climbing Shoe Under $100: La Sportiva Tarantulace Climbing Shoes; Best Climbing Shoe for All-Day Comfort: evolv Kronos / evolv Kira; Best for Trad Climbing: La Sportiva TC Pro Climbing Shoes; Best Climbing Shoe for Overhung Bouldering: Scarpa Instinct VS Climbing Shoes ; Best for Steep Sport Climbing: La Sportiva Miura VS Cllimbing Shoes Jun 10, 2022 · More experienced climbers, especially those that gravitate towards bouldering and sports climbing, will appreciate the sensitivity, smearing, and hooking prowess that the Air offers. Angled, low-profile toe box great for cracks, and all types of edging and face climbing It’s mostly for slab climbing that involves standing up on tiny pebbles as well as generating as much friction from getting as much rubber on the rock as possible. When you smear, look for small depressions or protrusions that will give a little extra friction. Innovative Proprietary Molded Rubber; Engineered Knit Technology; Specs. Lace-up; Hemp Lining; Our pick for best budget slab climbing shoes, the Black Diamond Momentum, brings something new and fresh to the table compared with traditional rock climbing shoes like the ones mentioned above. The La Sportiva Katana Lace defies the rules by doing it all, and doing it all well. This stiffness Sep 16, 2024 · Soft shoes, meanwhile, can also be either flat like the Five Ten Moccasym or downturned like Scarpa’s Veloce L. Nov 15, 2023 · But there’s a lot more to gym climbing than smearing on fancy volumes. Love your shoes. In this article, we will explore different types of climbing shoes that excel in smearing and discuss their unique features. Then I started climbing jug routes using only smears for my Dec 29, 2023 · What is smearing in rock climbing? Smearing is a rock climbing technique where you place the sole of your climbing shoe flat against the rock wall. The MoccAsym is a flat, soft shoe that is constructed in an unlined leather. It’s soft rubber and flexible last give you plenty of rock-to-rubber contact. Aug 19, 2024 · Amazing edging performance on vertical and slightly overhanging walls // Surprisingly good smearing performance for such an edging-specific shoe // Aggressive downturn and asymmetry allow for solid “grabbing” performance // The split-sole design minimizes foot fatigue after multiple pitches of edgy climbing // Ample toe rubber allows for competent toe hooking // Pointy toe shape is Mar 19, 2024 · Because, at the end of the day, the best climbing shoe is the one you like wearing. So Skwama a bit better for bad smear/pasty feet climbing and Instinct VS better for micro edges. While the Shaman wouldn’t be my first choice for friction-dependent footwork on severely angled slaps, the new model does allow Smearing is a technique used on any angle of climb – even the steepest climbs may involve smearing of some sort to get through a tricky section. Footwork should utilize “smearing” to make more surface on the volume usable. And even when it does start to get hot and sticky, the breathability that the mesh tongue provides helps keep the Mastia breathable and easy to slip on and off in Miuras, especially the Velcro version, have a more aggressive downturn than Mythos, which are essentially flat from the toe to the heel. Learn good footwork. Nov 11, 2023 · As with every climbing scenario, the right shoe depends on what type of surface you plan on standing on. By using your gravity-advantage, balance, and smearing technique, you will be amazed at what is possible! Smearing is when you apply pressure into an essentially blank face with the bottom of your toes. Jul 24, 2021 · 3. For an avid Miura wearer, they may even stock the shoe in different sizes, ready for all occasions. When to do it: You can use smearing any time that you can get the angle to have friction with your foot against the wall. Many climbers view smearing as a last resort and will always try to stand on a positive foothold in preference; however, this may facilitate an off-balance or strenuous move. That’s what it does. I love my Tanta Jun 8, 2021 · California-based Evolv touted its Zenist as an indoor climbing weapon. Remember when smearing, low heals will increase surface area contact on volumes. Unlike traditional climbing methods that rely on distinct edges or holds for foot placements, smearing requires climbers to trust the friction between their shoes and Dec 29, 2023 · Smearing in climbing is much different (however, for the linguists out there, I will include a short aside about how smear and schmear might be related). Outside, the Mastia’s adeptness at smearing and edging makes it ideal for vertical to overhanging face climbing on granite, sandstone, and conglomerate Climbing enthusiasts often find themselves pondering the ever-evolving techniques and strategies that can make or break their ascents. May 20, 2024 · Smearing is a technique that becomes crucial in climbing when facing a challenging route without apparent footholds. Oct 22, 2024 · Smearing is a climbing technique that involves using the rubber sole of climbing shoes to create friction against a rock surface when there are minimal or no footholds available. Dec 27, 2023 · But the sensitivity is a nice change of pace for trad shoes, and we were very impressed with the smearing capabilities of the Aspect Pro, especially for climbing granite faces. Nov 11, 2023 · The perfect slab shoe for you is going to come down to the angle and type of rock you plan on climbing. Well, slab climbing involves ascending virtually blank rock faces that have a less than vertical incline (watch the Nalle Hukkataival video above). The Futura sticks to holds. Excels on all angles and rock types. From essential gear to top global locations, this article covers everything you need to navigate the world of less-than-vertical climbs with confidence Apr 16, 2009 · I'm translating a climbing journal into french and have come across alot of climbing specific terminolgy, eg smearing, runouts, multi pitch etc. Apr 16, 2025 · Whether you're trad climbing, bouldering, or crack climbing, climbing shoes are a must, no matter your style. This is the shoe Adam Ondra used whilst clipping the chains of the first 9c, the footwear of choice for V17 bouldering bros Nalle Hukkataival and Shawn Raboutou, and the shoe that helped Jakob Schubert secure a podium finish at sport climbing’s Unlike a lot of its high-performance counterparts, the Drago’s ability to smear is very impressive. Apr 25, 2024 · Smearing. That’s the ultimate use for Five Ten’s new NIAD VCS, the updated version of the discontinued Anasazi line of shoes, which includes lace and slipper style shoes. If you balance your climbing priorities between the sport crag and longer multi-pitch climbs, then give these a try. Spend $60 on climbing shoes and be surprised when they fall apart after 2 months of gym sessions. This is especially true on high angle climbs. Best For: Diverse bouldering and sport climbing, especially steep stuff. Apr 16, 2025 · What to look for in sport climbing shoes; Ten things you need to know about climbing shoes; Our favorites; Honorable mentions; Most gear roundups cover new releases. Smearing is when you press the sole of your shoe into the rock and propel yourself up using only the friction you get from your climbing shoe – click here for the top 10. Focus on pressing your feet directly into the wall. Whether you love to climb indoors or outdoors, smearing is an essential tool for any climber. com is from a shoe roundup put together by Chris Weidner in 2008. Drop heel to maximize contact; Push toes and forefoot down Smearing Slab climbing, in particular, is a great way to compare each shoe's performance in terms of smearing. Thanks to the Tarifa’s stability, you can easily edge and rest on tiny nubs and holds. Versatile for smearing and edging. Asymmetrical shoes Jun 11, 2024 · Slab Climbing Tips and Tricks Maximizing Rubber Contact with the wall when smearing. As an avid climber and family man, I love to be outside and spend the day climbing, camping, and having a good time. When we climb, our feet are our foundation. The softer construction will enable you to hook and pull at pockets significantly easier than their stiffer counterparts. My question is, are these terms universal or or are there terms specific to each language within the climbing fraternity? It's really difficult to know, not being a climber, and not being great at french. Hi, Thanks for the detailed review. My footwork can get a little awkward, standing only 5'1" high (all hail short legs), im developing this habit of smearing whenever my survival instinct just kicks in, be it on slabs or terrible Dec 24, 2023 · Slab climbing requires an understanding of the subtleties of smearing. Dec 27, 2023 · The Yosemite Bum is a softer-flexing high-top that offers good sensitivity for smearing. You can find climbing, bouldering, and mountaineering articles, gear reviews, and buying guides on this site! I used to believe that most rubbers were pretty indistinguishable in practice, but as I've started climbing more bouldery stuff above . ptxa hmljf ynlu nbb ujwge ctyo iumikh xvujco abpxv ogryvs